| Two parts | Adjectival + technical grade |
| Adjectival | Mod, Severe, VS, HVS, E1, E2… |
| Technical | 4a, 5b, 6a… |
| Difficulty | Advanced concept |
The British trad grade is a two-part system for traditional climbs combining an adjectival grade for overall seriousness (Moderate, Severe, E1, E2, and upward) with a technical grade for the hardest single move (4a, 5b, 6a). Together they convey not just difficulty but how bold or well-protected a route is — a distinctive feature of British climbing.
The two grades
The adjectival grade rates the whole experience (Mod, Severe, VS, HVS, E1, E2…); the technical grade rates the single hardest move (5b, 6a).
What E1 means
E1 is the first open-ended ‘Extremely Severe’ grade — the start of hard trad.
Reading the pair
Comparing the two reveals boldness vs pure difficulty. Convert with our grade converter.
Frequently asked questions
How do British climbing grades work?
Each trad route gets two grades. The adjectival grade (Moderate, Difficult, Severe, Very Severe, Hard Very Severe, then E1, E2, E3 and up) rates the overall experience — difficulty, danger, and how sustained it is. The technical grade (like 5b or 6a) rates just the single hardest move.
What does E1 mean in climbing?
E1 ('Extremely Severe 1') is the first of the open-ended 'E' adjectival grades, marking the start of hard British trad. Paired with a technical grade like 5a or 5b, it tells you a route is committing and serious, but the exact challenge depends on both numbers together.
Why does British climbing use two grades?
Because a route's danger and its physical hardness aren't the same thing. Comparing the adjectival and technical grades reveals character: a high adjectival with a modest technical grade signals a bold, poorly protected route, while the reverse signals safe but physically hard climbing.
Sources
- Grading systems — American Alpine Club