The Ewbank system and YDS both grade routes with a single difficulty rating but use different numbers. Ewbank uses one open-ended number (18, 22, 30) in Australia, NZ, and South Africa; YDS uses 5.0–5.15 with letters in the US. For example, Ewbank 18 is roughly YDS 5.10a.
| Aspect | Ewbank | YDS |
|---|---|---|
| Format | Single open-ended number | 5.10a style |
| Region | Australia, NZ, S. Africa | United States & Canada |
| ~5.9 | 17 | 5.9 |
| ~5.10a | 18 | 5.10a |
| ~5.11b | 22 | 5.11b |
| ~5.12a | 24 | 5.12a |
You'll see Ewbank in…
- Australia
- New Zealand
- South Africa
You'll see YDS in…
- The United States
- Canada
- US guidebooks
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
How does the Ewbank scale work?
It uses one continuous number for overall difficulty, with no letters or plus signs — numbers simply rise as climbs get harder, currently into the high 30s. A grade 21 is harder than an 18.
How does Ewbank compare to YDS?
Approximately — for instance Ewbank 18 is around YDS 5.10a and 22 around 5.11b. Because the systems were built separately, conversions are indicative; use the converter for a side-by-side line-up.
Where is the Ewbank system used?
Primarily in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. Elsewhere the French scale, American YDS, and British system are more common.
Related: Ewbank · YDS · Grade conversion · French grade