The figure-eight device and the ATC are both rappel tools, but modern climbers mostly rappel with an ATC. The figure-eight sheds heat well on long descents and is popular in rescue and caving, but it twists the rope; the ATC is lighter, more compact, twists less, and doubles as a belay device.
| Aspect | Figure-Eight Device | ATC |
|---|---|---|
| Shape | Metal figure-of-eight | Tube |
| Main use | Rappel / rescue descender | Belay + rappel |
| Heat dissipation | Excellent | Good |
| Rope twisting | High | Low |
| Climbing use | Rare today | Standard |
Use a figure-eight when…
- You're doing long, heavy rappels
- You're caving, canyoneering, or in rescue
- Heat dissipation matters
Use an ATC when…
- You're on everyday climbing rappels
- You also belay with the same device
- You want less rope twist
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
Figure-eight or ATC for rappelling?
Most climbers rappel with a tube-style ATC: it's lighter, more compact, twists the rope less, and also belays. Figure-eights remain popular in rescue, caving, and canyoneering for their heat dissipation on long, heavy rappels.
Do figure-eight devices twist the rope?
Yes — a common drawback is that they put twists and kinks into the rope during a rappel, which is a key reason they've fallen out of favour for everyday climbing in favour of tube devices.
Can you belay with a figure-eight device?
It was once common, but figure-eights give less control for belaying and aren't designed for it the way tube devices and assisted-braking devices are. Today they're used mainly for rappelling and descending, not belaying.
Related: Figure-Eight Device · ATC · Belay device · Rappel