The UIAA and French scales both grade route difficulty but look very different. UIAA uses Roman numerals (VII-, VIII) and is common in Germany, Austria, and the Alps; French uses numbers plus letters (6b, 7a) and dominates sport climbing worldwide. They map approximately — UIAA VII- is around French 6b.
| Aspect | UIAA | French |
|---|---|---|
| Format | Roman numerals (I–XII) | Number + letter (6a, 7b+) |
| Region | Germany, Austria, the Alps | Most of the world |
| Refinement | + / – signs | Letters + plus |
| ~French 6a | VI+ | 6a |
| ~French 7a | VIII- | 7a |
You'll see UIAA in…
- Germany, Austria, Switzerland
- Alpine and Central European routes
- Older European guidebooks
You'll see French in…
- Sport crags across most of the world
- International sport climbing
- Most modern topos
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
How does the UIAA scale work?
It rates difficulty with ascending Roman numerals — I is easy, modern hard routes reach XI or XII — with plus and minus signs (VII-, VII, VII+) for finer steps. Higher numerals mean harder climbing.
How do UIAA and French grades compare?
They map approximately: for example UIAA VI+ is around French 6a and VIII- around 7a. Because the systems were built separately, conversions are indicative rather than exact.
Where is the UIAA scale used?
Mainly in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and parts of Central and Eastern Europe, and on many alpine routes. Elsewhere the French sport scale and American YDS are more common.
Related: UIAA · French · YDS · Grade conversion