The bowline and the figure-eight follow-through are both tie-in knots. The figure-eight is the standard because it's easy to inspect and secure; the bowline unties easily even after hard falls but is harder to check and can shake loose if not backed up. Most climbers and gyms use the figure-eight.
| Aspect | Bowline | Figure-Eight |
|---|---|---|
| Ease of inspection | Harder | Easy (symmetric) |
| After a big fall | Unties easily | Can weld shut |
| Security | Needs a backup | Very secure |
| Who uses it | Experienced sport climbers | Everyone, including beginners |
| Standard tie-in | No | Yes |
Use a bowline if…
- You fall or hang a lot and hate untying welded knots
- You always back it up
- You're an experienced climber
Use a figure-eight if…
- You want the easy-to-check standard
- You're learning to climb
- You're doing any kind of climbing
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
Bowline or figure-eight for tying in?
Most climbers and instructors recommend the figure-eight follow-through because it's easy to inspect and less prone to coming undone. The bowline unties easily after big falls, so some experienced sport climbers use a backed-up variant, but it demands more care.
Is a bowline safe for climbing?
A correctly tied and properly backed-up bowline is strong and reliable, but a plain bowline can work loose when cyclically loaded and unweighted. With a smaller margin for error than a figure-eight, it's an experienced climber's choice, not a beginner knot.
Why do projectors use a bowline?
After repeated hard falls, a figure-eight can weld shut and become very hard to untie. The bowline stays easy to untie even after big whippers, which is why some climbers projecting hard sport routes prefer a backed-up bowline.
Related: Bowline · Figure-Eight · Climbing knots · Stopper knot