The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) and the French sport grade rate the same route difficulty on different scales. YDS uses 5.0–5.15 with letters (5.11a); French uses numbers plus letters (6a, 7b+). For example, 5.10a is roughly French 6a, and 5.12a about 7b.
| Aspect | YDS | French |
|---|---|---|
| Region | United States | Europe & worldwide |
| Format | 5.10a, 5.12d | 6a, 7b+ |
| ~5.9 | 5.9 | 5c |
| ~5.10a | 5.10a | 6a |
| ~5.11d | 5.11d | 7a |
| ~5.13a | 5.13a | 8a |
You'll use YDS if…
- You climb in the United States
- You read US guidebooks
- You climb with American partners
You'll use French if…
- You climb in Europe or most of the world
- You sport climb internationally
- You read European topos
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
What is 5.10 in French?
Roughly French 6a to 6b depending on the letter: 5.10a is about 6a and 5.10d about 6b+. Use the converter for the exact line-up across systems.
Are YDS and French grades the same difficulty?
They rate the same difficulty on different scales, so each YDS grade has an approximate French equivalent. Because the systems were developed separately, conversions are close but not exact.
Which countries use which system?
YDS is used in the US and Canada; the French numerical scale is used across most of Europe and much of the rest of the world for sport routes. The UK, Australia, and German-speaking countries use their own systems.
Related: YDS · French · UIAA grade · Grade conversion · Sport climbing