| What it is | Partly detached rock slab |
| Climbed by | Laybacking, pinching, jamming |
| Caution | Can be loose — test it |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
A flake is a thin slab of rock partly detached from the main face, creating an edge or crack a climber can pull, pinch, or layback. Flakes range from solid, useful holds to loose, dangerous blocks, so testing a flake before fully weighting it is an important safety habit.
How you climb one
Often by laybacking the edge, pinching the flake, or jamming the crack behind it.
Safety first
Test before committing, pull down rather than out, and distrust hollow-sounding rock — a loose flake is a serious hazard.
Good to know
See all hold types and crack climbing.
Frequently asked questions
What is a flake in climbing?
A flake is a sheet of rock partly separated from the wall, leaving an edge or a crack behind it. Climbers grip the edge, pinch the flake, or layback it, and the crack behind can sometimes take protection. Flakes are a common and distinctive natural feature.
How do you climb a flake?
Often by laybacking — pulling sideways on the flake's edge while pushing your feet against the wall — or by pinching it or jamming the crack behind it. Read which technique the flake's size and orientation favour, and keep your weight efficient since flake climbing can be strenuous.
Are flakes dangerous?
They can be. Detached flakes range from bomber to loose, and a poorly attached flake can break off when weighted or pulled outward. Tap or gently test a flake before committing, pull down rather than out where possible, and treat hollow-sounding rock with suspicion.
Sources
- Rock features and hazards — American Alpine Club