| Shape | Pear-shaped, locking |
| Used for | Belaying & rappelling |
| Suits | Munter hitch, belay devices |
| Difficulty | Beginner |
From German Halbmastwurfsicherung — 'half clove-hitch belay', i.e. the Munter hitch.
An HMS carabiner is a large, pear-shaped locking carabiner designed for belaying and rappelling. Its wide, symmetrical top accommodates a Munter hitch and lets a belay device move freely, while the locking gate keeps it secure. HMS stands for the German Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning Munter-hitch belay.
Why the shape
The broad top gives a belay device room to move and lets a munter hitch flip smoothly.
When to use it
As the locker on your belay loop for belaying and rappelling.
Frequently asked questions
What is an HMS carabiner?
It's a pear-shaped locking carabiner with a wide, rounded top, made for belaying and rappelling. The broad top gives a belay device room to move and lets a Munter hitch flip back and forth smoothly, while the locking gate keeps the connection secure.
What does HMS stand for?
HMS comes from the German word Halbmastwurfsicherung, which means belaying with the half clove hitch — the Munter hitch. The carabiner is named for its suitability for that hitch.
When do you use a pear-shaped carabiner?
Whenever you belay or rappel: it's the standard locker to attach a belay device to your harness, and the go-to carabiner for a Munter-hitch belay. Its shape isn't ideal for clipping protection, so it's reserved for the belay loop.
Sources
- Belaying hardware — Petzl