| Locking | Manual threaded sleeve |
| Pros | Simple, light, easy to check |
| Caveat | Must remember to lock it |
| Difficulty | Beginner |
A screwgate carabiner is a locking carabiner secured by a threaded sleeve you screw closed by hand over the gate. Simple, light, and easy to inspect at a glance, screwgates are a popular locker for belaying, anchors, and tethers — with the one caveat that you must remember to do the gate up.
How to use it
Clip, then thread the sleeve closed (snug, not over-tight) and confirm it by sight before weighting — the discipline that offsets its one weakness.
Screwgate vs auto-lock
Auto-locking lockers close themselves; screwgates are simpler and lighter. Pair the pear-shaped HMS version with a belay device.
Frequently asked questions
Screwgate or auto-locking carabiner — which is better?
Screwgates are simpler, lighter, and you can confirm the lock by sight, but they rely on you remembering to do them up. Auto-locking carabiners close themselves, reducing user error, but are heavier and can jam with grit. Many climbers use both for different jobs.
How do you use a screwgate?
Clip it as normal, then thread the sleeve closed over the gate by hand until snug — don't overtighten, or it can be hard to undo, especially under load. Build the habit of locking it and giving it a check before weighting.
Can a screwgate come undone?
If left unlocked, yes — that's its main weakness. A properly screwed-up screwgate is secure, but vibration or rubbing can occasionally loosen a sleeve over time, so climbers visually confirm it's locked before relying on it.
Sources
- Connector technical notice — Petzl