What Is Barn-Dooring in Climbing?

Barn-dooring is when a climber's body swings uncontrollably away from the wall like a door on a hinge, because their weight isn't balanced over their points of contact. It typically happens when the useful holds are all on one side of the body, and is corrected with techniques like flagging to counterbalance.

ClimbingTechniquesIntermediate
Barn-dooring is when a climber's body swings uncontrollably away from the wall like a door on a hinge, because their weight isn't balanced over their points of contact. It typically happens when the useful holds are all on one side of the body, and is corrected with techniques like flagging to counterbalance.
What it isBody swinging off like a door
CauseUnbalanced weight, one-sided holds
FixFlagging, drop-knee, repositioning
DifficultyIntermediate concept

Barn-dooring is when a climber’s body swings uncontrollably away from the wall like a door on a hinge, because their weight isn’t balanced over their points of contact. It typically happens when the useful holds are all on one side of the body, and is corrected with techniques like flagging to counterbalance.

Why it happens

One-sided holds leave nothing to oppose the rotation, so your body swings open — common on aretes and steep terrain.

The fix

Flagging a leg out, a drop knee, or turning a hip in to recentre your weight.

Frequently asked questions

What is barn-dooring?

Barn-dooring is when your body rotates and swings away from the wall around your hand and foot on one side, like a door opening on its hinges. It happens because your centre of gravity isn't supported, usually when your holds line up on one side of your body.

How do you stop barn-dooring?

Counterbalance the swing — most often by flagging a leg out to the opposite side, but also by dropping a knee, turning a hip into the wall, or finding a foothold or hold on the other side. The goal is to get your weight back over your points of contact.

Why do I barn-door?

Usually because the holds you're using are stacked on one side, leaving nothing to oppose the rotational pull. It's especially common on aretes and steep terrain, and is a sign you need a counterbalancing technique like flagging.

Sources