| Type | Footwork / body-position technique |
| Best on | Overhangs, aretes, big holds |
| Does | Adds pulling power, reduces arm strain |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
A heel hook is a climbing technique where you place your heel on a hold and pull with your leg, using it almost like a third hand. It lets you take weight off your arms, stay close to the wall on steep terrain, and lock into position on overhangs, aretes, and around bulges.
How it’s done
Set the back or side of your heel on a hold, then drive through your hamstring to pull your body in the direction you want to move. The strength comes from the leg and core, not the foot alone. A supportive shoe heel and active tension keep it from slipping.
When to use it
Heel hooks are most valuable on overhanging rock and aretes, and they are a staple of hard bouldering. They pair with the toe hook, its opposite, which pulls with the top of the foot.
Common mistakes & safety
Beginners often place only the toe-end of the heel and lose purchase, or yank explosively and strain a hamstring. Engage the move with control, and warm up your legs — heel hooks load the knee and hamstring more than normal footwork.
Frequently asked questions
When should you use a heel hook?
Use one when a hold is roughly waist height or higher and you need to pull with your leg — typically on overhanging rock, around aretes and bulges, or to reach a distant hold without your feet cutting loose. It shines wherever your arms would otherwise do all the work.
How do you heel hook correctly?
Place the back or side of your heel on the hold, then engage your hamstring to pull as you move, keeping tension through the leg. The power comes from your hamstring and core, not just the foot, and a snug, supportive shoe heel makes a big difference.
Why do heel hooks cause injuries?
Pulling hard with the heel loads the hamstring and knee in a way ordinary footwork does not, so an explosive or twisted heel hook can strain the hamstring or knee. Warming up and engaging the move with control rather than a sudden yank reduces the risk.
Sources
- Climbing movement and technique — American Alpine Club