Heel hooks and toe hooks both use the foot like a third hand on steep climbing, pulling in opposite directions. A heel hook pulls with the back of the heel to lever your body in; a toe hook pulls with the top of the foot to stop you swinging out. They're often used together on roofs.
| Aspect | Heel Hook | Toe Hook |
|---|---|---|
| Pulls with | Back of the heel | Top of the foot/toes |
| Direction | Levers body in and up | Stops outward swing |
| Best on | Big holds, aretes, mantles | Roofs, volumes, steep aretes |
| Main muscle | Hamstring | Shin / top of foot |
| Injury note | Hamstring & knee strain | Lower risk |
Use a heel hook when…
- A hold sits around waist height to pull on
- You're on an arete or bulge
- You're topping out a boulder
Use a toe hook when…
- You need to keep feet on under a roof
- You're opposing a heel hook on the other foot
- You need to stop your body swinging out
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between a heel hook and a toe hook?
A heel hook pulls with the back of your heel to lever your body inward and upward, while a toe hook pulls with the top of your foot to stop your body swinging away from the wall. They engage opposite directions and are often paired on steep terrain.
Which is more powerful?
The heel hook is generally the more powerful, since it uses the strong hamstring to pull your whole body in, and can even take much of your weight. The toe hook is more about maintaining tension and preventing a swing than generating big pulling force.
Do hooks cause injury?
Heel hooks can strain the hamstring or knee if applied explosively or twisted, so engage them with control and warm up. Toe hooks are lower-risk. Both are safe when used smoothly rather than with a sudden yank.
Related: Heel Hook · Toe Hook · Overhang · Bouldering