Locking and non-locking carabiners serve different roles. A locking carabiner has a securable gate for single, critical connections — the belay device, anchor, or rappel; a non-locking carabiner has a sprung gate for redundant connections like quickdraws. Using the right type in each spot is fundamental to safety.
| Aspect | Locking Carabiner | Non-Locking Carabiner |
|---|---|---|
| Gate | Locks shut | Sprung, can be bumped open |
| Used for | Critical single connections | Redundant connections |
| Examples | Belay, anchor, rappel, tether | Quickdraws, racking gear |
| Speed | Slower (lock it) | Fast |
| Risk if misused | — | Open-gate failure at key points |
Use a locker when…
- It's a single critical connection
- You're attaching a belay device or rappel
- You're clipping into an anchor or tether
Use a non-locker when…
- The connection is redundant
- You're using a quickdraw
- You're racking gear
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
When should you use a locking carabiner?
At any single, critical connection where an accidental gate opening would be dangerous: the belay device, the master point of an anchor, a rappel setup, or a personal tether. Non-locking carabiners are for redundant connections like quickdraws.
What's the difference between locking and non-locking carabiners?
A non-locking carabiner has a sprung gate that can be bumped open; a locking carabiner adds a sleeve or mechanism that secures the gate. Lockers are for single critical points; non-lockers for redundant ones.
Are non-locking carabiners safe?
Yes, in the right place — they're standard on quickdraws and for racking, where redundancy means one gate opening isn't catastrophic. They become dangerous only if used at single critical connections that should have a locker.
Related: Locking Carabiner · Non-Locking Carabiner · Carabiner · Belay device