| Types | Tube/ATC, assisted-braking, figure-eight |
| Used with | A locking carabiner |
| Functions | Belaying, rappelling, guide mode |
| Difficulty | Beginner (requires instruction) |
A belay device is a piece of equipment that creates friction on the climbing rope so a belayer can hold a fall, lower a climber, and manage slack with controlled effort. Designs range from simple tube-style devices to assisted-braking devices that help lock the rope automatically.
How it works
The rope bends sharply through the device and against a locking carabiner; pulling the brake strand into the locked position multiplies friction enough to hold a fall during belaying.
Types
The main families are tube-style devices like the ATC, assisted-braking devices like the GriGri, and guide-mode plaquettes for belaying a follower from above. See the full GriGri vs ATC comparison.
What to look for
Match the device to your rope diameter and climbing style, and learn its specific technique — every device handles slightly differently, and using one incorrectly is a serious hazard.
Frequently asked questions
ATC or GriGri — which is better?
A tube-style ATC is light, simple, works with two ropes, and is great for rappelling and multi-pitch. A GriGri is an assisted-braking device that helps lock the rope, favored for sport climbing and projecting. Many climbers own both and choose by the day's climbing.
What is an assisted-braking belay device?
It's a device with a mechanism — usually a cam — that helps pinch and lock the rope when it's loaded suddenly, adding a margin of safety. It still requires a hand on the brake at all times; 'assisted' does not mean automatic or hands-free.
Can you rappel with any belay device?
You can rappel with tube-style devices and figure-eights, which feed both rope strands smoothly. Some assisted-braking devices are designed for single-strand lowering rather than double-strand rappels, so always check the device's intended use.
Sources
- Belay device technical notice — Petzl
- Belaying methods — American Alpine Club