| What it is | An anchor built in snow |
| Methods | Picket, deadman, buried axe, bollard |
| Strength | Depends on snow quality |
| Difficulty | Advanced |
A snow anchor is a point of attachment built in snow to hold a climber, belay, or rappel, since snow offers no cracks for rock gear. Methods include buried ‘deadman’ anchors like a picket, snow stake, or buried ice axe, and the snow bollard carved from the snow itself. Their strength depends entirely on snow quality.
Methods
A driven or buried picket / snow stake (‘deadman’), a buried ice axe, or a carved snow bollard.
The catch
Snow anchors are only as good as the snow — test them, back them up, and equalize. Educational only; not a substitute for hands-on instruction.
Frequently asked questions
How do you build a snow anchor?
Common methods are driving in a picket or snow stake at the correct angle, burying a 'deadman' (a picket, stake, or ice axe buried horizontally and clipped from below), or carving a snow bollard — a teardrop-shaped mound of snow the rope loops around. The right method depends on the snow.
What is a deadman anchor?
A deadman is an object — a picket, snow stake, ice axe, or even a stuff sack full of snow — buried horizontally in the snow with the attachment running down to the climber. The weight and resistance of the packed snow above it provide the holding power.
How strong are snow anchors?
Their strength is highly variable and depends almost entirely on snow quality — firm, consolidated snow can hold well, while soft or rotten snow holds poorly. Because they're less certain than rock anchors, climbers test them, back them up where possible, and use techniques like equalization.
Sources
- Snow anchors — American Alpine Club
- Snow & glacier instruction — AMGA