| What it is | Sturdy aluminium snow stake |
| Length | Typically 60-90 cm |
| Placed | Driven in or buried (deadman) |
| Difficulty | Advanced |
A picket is a sturdy aluminium stake, typically 60-90 cm long, used to build snow anchors. It can be driven into firm snow at an angle or buried horizontally as a deadman in softer snow. Pickets are the workhorse snow-protection piece for steep snow climbing, crevasse rescue, and snow belays.
How it’s placed
Driven in (firm snow) or buried as a deadman (soft snow) to form a snow anchor — alongside the carved snow bollard.
Picket vs snow stake
See picket vs snow stake.
Frequently asked questions
What is a picket in mountaineering?
A picket is a strong aluminium stake — usually a T- or angle-section about 60-90 cm long — used to create anchors in snow. It's the main piece of snow protection for steep snow climbs, snow belays, and crevasse rescue, where there's no rock or ice for other gear.
How do you place a picket?
In firm snow you drive it in vertically or angled slightly back from the load, clipping the rope near the snow surface. In softer snow it's more reliable buried horizontally as a 'deadman', with the clip-in cable running down to you through a slot. The method is chosen to match the snow.
What's the difference between a picket and a snow stake?
They overlap; 'picket' generally denotes a longer, stronger stake, while 'snow stake' can include lighter flat stakes. Both are placed driven-in or buried as deadmen, and both depend on snow quality for their strength.
Sources
- Snow protection — American Alpine Club