| What it is | Permanent drilled anchor |
| Used in | Sport climbing, anchors |
| Clipped with | A quickdraw |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
A bolt is a permanent anchor point drilled and fixed into the rock, used in sport climbing for protection and at the tops of routes for anchors. A climber clips a quickdraw to the bolt’s hanger and the rope to the draw. Bolts make hard climbing accessible, but where and whether they’re placed is governed by local ethics and access rules.
How it works
An expansion or glue-in bolt holds a metal hanger; you clip a quickdraw to it while sport climbing, and pairs of bolts form top anchors.
Ethics & access
Bolting is restricted or banned in many areas; it’s guided by local agreements, not individual whim.
Aging hardware
Bolts corrode and loosen over decades — inspect them, distrust suspect ones, and support rebolting.
Frequently asked questions
How strong is a climbing bolt?
A modern, correctly installed bolt in good rock is very strong — typically rated well above the forces of any climbing fall. Strength depends on the bolt type, the rock quality, and correct installation, which is why aging or poorly placed bolts are a real hazard and are periodically replaced.
Who places climbing bolts?
Experienced climbers known as route developers or 'equippers' place bolts, ideally following local conventions and using durable hardware. Bolting is regulated or prohibited in many areas, especially wilderness and on certain rock, so it's governed by access agreements and ethics rather than being a free-for-all.
How long do climbing bolts last?
Quality stainless hardware can last decades, but bolts corrode and loosen over time, and older or cheaper bolts fail sooner — especially near the sea. Climbers should inspect bolts, treat suspect ones with caution, and support local rebolting efforts.
Sources
- Bolting and fixed anchors — Access Fund
- Sport climbing protection — American Alpine Club