| How placed | Hammered into a crack |
| Mostly replaced by | Cams and nuts |
| Still used in | Aid climbing, fixed pins |
| Difficulty | Advanced |
A piton is a metal spike that a climber hammers into a crack and clips for protection — an older form of gear largely replaced by removable cams and nuts on free climbs. Pitons are still used in aid climbing and remain fixed on many classic routes, but because hammering them damages rock, their use is now limited.
How it was used
Climbers hammered pitons into cracks and clipped them, the standard before cams and nuts made clean, removable protection possible.
Why it faded
Placing and removing pins scars the rock, so the ethic shifted to clean gear. Pitons now persist mainly in aid climbing and as fixed pins.
Piton vs bolt
A piton uses a natural crack; a bolt is drilled into blank rock.
Frequently asked questions
Are pitons still used in climbing?
Rarely for free climbing, where removable cams and nuts have replaced them, but they're still used in aid climbing and big-wall routes, and many older pins remain fixed on classic lines. Some alpine and winter routes still carry a few pitons for emergencies.
Why are pitons discouraged?
Hammering a piton in and prying it out scars and gradually destroys the crack, so repeated use damages the rock. As clean, removable protection became available, the ethic shifted strongly toward gear that leaves no trace, limiting pitons to where nothing else works.
What's the difference between a piton and a bolt?
A piton is hammered into a natural crack and can sometimes be removed; a bolt is drilled into blank rock and is permanent. Both are fixed gear, but bolts create protection where no crack exists, whereas pitons rely on existing features.
Sources
- Aid climbing and fixed gear — American Alpine Club