| Definition | Moving parts; spring-loaded grip |
| Main example | Cams (SLCDs) |
| Works in | Parallel & flaring cracks |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
Active protection is trad climbing gear with moving parts that grips the rock through a spring mechanism — chiefly spring-loaded camming devices (cams). It can protect parallel-sided and flaring cracks where passive gear won’t hold, at the cost of more weight, expense, and maintenance.
How it works
A cam’s spring-loaded lobes convert a downward pull into outward grip, holding in cracks that have no constriction.
Active vs passive
Where passive gear needs a pinch, active gear grips parallel walls. See passive vs active.
On the rack
Cams and nuts are complementary — a trad rack carries both.
Frequently asked questions
What counts as active protection?
Spring-loaded camming devices — cams — are the main active protection, including micro-cams and offset cams. They have moving lobes driven by a spring, which is what distinguishes them from passive wedges like nuts and hexes.
What's the difference between active and passive protection?
Active protection uses a spring mechanism to grip, so it works in parallel-sided cracks; passive protection has no moving parts and only holds where a crack constricts. Active gear is more versatile but heavier, pricier, and needs occasional maintenance.
Are cams better than nuts?
Neither is strictly better — they're complementary. Cams place fast and protect parallel cracks; nuts are lighter, cheaper, bombproof in constrictions, and don't 'walk'. A good trad rack carries both and uses each where it fits best.
Sources
- Active rock climbing protection — American Alpine Club