Key takeaways
- A bergschrund is the crevasse where moving glacier ice pulls away from the stationary ice/rock above.
- It forms at the head (top) of a glacier and can be large and deep.
- It's often the first major obstacle when climbing onto a glaciated face.
- Crossing it may require a snow bridge, a technical move, or finding a weakness in it.
German, 'mountain crevasse' (Berg = mountain, Schrund = cleft).
This is general educational information, not glacier-travel training. Take a course before traveling on glaciers.
What a bergschrund is
A bergschrund is the crevasse that forms at the head of a glacier, where the moving glacial ice pulls away from the stationary ice or rock above it. The German name means ‘mountain crevasse’, and it’s typically the uppermost, often largest gap on a glaciated slope.
How it differs from a crevasse
All bergschrunds are crevasses, but the bergschrund specifically marks the boundary between the flowing glacier and the static ice or rock above. Ordinary crevasses form throughout the glacier wherever the ice fractures; the bergschrund is the defining one at the top. See crevasse vs bergschrund.
Starting up a glaciated face, a team reaches the bergschrund and has to find a way across — locating a sturdy snow bridge spanning the gap, or a narrow spot where they can make a short technical move onto the slope above.
Why it matters
The bergschrund is frequently the first major obstacle in getting onto a route, and its condition changes through the season — widening as the glacier flows and snow bridges melt out. That changing state can determine whether a climb is feasible at a given time, making it a key part of glacier travel planning.
The bottom line
The bergschrund is the glacier's defining top crevasse — the gap where moving ice tears away from the static ice or rock above, usually at the head of a face. For climbers it's frequently the first crux of getting onto a route, crossed via a snow bridge or a technical move, and its seasonally changing condition can make or break a climb.
Frequently asked questions
What is a bergschrund?
A bergschrund is the crevasse that forms at the top of a glacier, where the flowing glacial ice breaks away from the stationary ice or rock above it. The German word means 'mountain crevasse'. It's typically found at the head of a glaciated slope and can be a large, deep gap.
How is a bergschrund different from a regular crevasse?
Both are cracks in glacial ice, but a bergschrund specifically marks the boundary between the moving glacier and the static ice or rock above, at the head of the glacier. Ordinary crevasses form throughout the glacier wherever the flowing ice fractures over terrain. The bergschrund is essentially the uppermost, defining crevasse. See our crevasse vs bergschrund comparison.
Why does the bergschrund matter to climbers?
Because it's often the first significant obstacle when starting up a glaciated face — a gap that separates the lower glacier from the climb above. Crossing it can require finding a snow bridge, a narrow section, or making a technical move, and its condition (which changes through the season) can determine whether a route is feasible.
Sources
- Glacier features & travel — American Alpine Club
- Glaciers — USGS