Key takeaways
- Beta is information or advice on how to climb a route or problem — the moves, holds, rests, and clips.
- It's shared in person, in guidebooks, and via online photos and videos.
- Using beta affects ascent style: a flash uses beta; an onsight uses none.
- Unsolicited beta ('spray') is poor etiquette — offer it only when asked.
Said to come from climber Jack Mileski's 'Beta Max' reference (after the videotape format).
What beta is
Beta is information or advice about how to climb a particular route or boulder problem — the sequence of moves, which holds to use and how, where to rest, where to clip or place gear, and other tips. Climbers share beta in person, in guidebooks, and online through photos and videos, helping each other figure out and send climbs.
How beta shapes ascent style
The amount of beta you have defines how an ascent is counted:
- Onsight — clean first try, no beta (the most prized).
- Flash — clean first try, with beta.
- Redpoint — after practicing (and accumulating beta).
Stuck below a crux, a climber asks a friend for beta; the friend explains to bump the left hand to a hidden crimp and drop-knee for the reach — and with that beta, the climber unlocks the move on the next go (a flash, not an onsight, since they used the advice).
Beta etiquette: don’t ‘spray’
Unsolicited beta — shouting the moves while someone is trying to work it out — is called ‘spray’ and is considered poor etiquette, since many climbers enjoy solving the sequence themselves (and it can spoil an onsight). The polite move is to ask ‘Do you want beta?’ first.
The bottom line
Beta is the shared knowledge of how to climb something — the moves, holds, rests, and clips, passed along in person, in guidebooks, and online. How much beta you use defines your ascent style, from the beta-free onsight to the beta-aided flash. Just mind the etiquette: keep your beta to yourself unless someone asks, since unsolicited 'spray' can spoil the puzzle.
Frequently asked questions
What is beta in climbing?
Beta is information or advice about how to climb a specific route or boulder problem — the sequence of moves, which holds to grab and how, where to rest, where to clip or place gear, and other helpful tips. Climbers give and receive beta to help each other figure out and send climbs.
How does beta affect climbing style?
The amount of beta you have shapes how an ascent is counted. An onsight is climbing a route cleanly on the first try with no prior beta; a flash is a clean first try but using beta (advice, or having watched someone); a redpoint is after practicing. Onsighting is most prized precisely because it allows no beta, testing your ability to read the climb yourself.
What is 'spray' or unsolicited beta?
'Spray' is when someone gives you beta you didn't ask for — shouting out the moves while you're trying to figure out a problem yourself. It's considered poor etiquette, because many climbers value working out the sequence on their own (and it can 'spoil' an onsight). The polite approach is to ask 'Do you want beta?' before offering any.
Sources
- Climbing terminology & etiquette — American Alpine Club
- Climbing culture — UIAA