| Forms | A fixed loop |
| Advantage | Unties easily after loading |
| Caution | Must be backed up |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
The bowline is a knot that forms a fixed loop at the end of a rope, used by some climbers as an alternative tie-in and to attach the rope to anchors or trees. Its main advantage over the figure-eight is that it unties easily even after heavy loading, but it must be backed up, since an unsecured bowline can shake loose.
Bowline vs figure-eight
The figure-eight is easier to check and the standard tie-in; the bowline trades a little inspectability for easy untying. See bowline vs figure-eight.
Always back it up
Finish with a stopper or use a secure variant — a plain bowline can work loose.
Good to know
It’s an experienced climber’s tie-in, valued after hard redpoint falls when a figure-eight welds shut.
Frequently asked questions
Bowline or figure-eight for tying in?
Most climbers and instructors recommend the figure-eight follow-through because it's easier to inspect and less prone to coming undone. The bowline's appeal is that it unties easily after big falls, so some experienced sport climbers use a backed-up variant — but it demands more care.
Is a bowline safe for climbing?
A correctly tied and properly backed-up bowline is strong and reliable, but a plain bowline can work loose when cyclically loaded and unweighted. Because the margin for error is smaller than with a figure-eight, it's considered an experienced climber's choice, not a beginner knot.
How do you back up a bowline?
Finish it with a stopper knot (such as a double overhand) around the standing part, or use a recognised secure variant like the double or Yosemite bowline. The backup uses up the tail and stops the knot from shaking loose.
Sources
- Tie-in knots — American Alpine Club