Key takeaways
- A crimp is a small edge hold, and the bent-finger grip used to hold it.
- Variations: open crimp (safest), half crimp (versatile), full crimp (most powerful but hardest on tendons).
- Crimping stresses finger tendons and pulleys — a top cause of climbing finger injuries.
- Build crimp strength gradually, warm up, and avoid over-relying on the full crimp.
What a crimp is
A crimp is both a small climbing hold with a narrow edge and the grip used to hold it: fingertips on the edge, fingers bent at the first knuckle. Crimping lets you cling to tiny edges you couldn’t hold with an open hand, making it one of the most common — and most powerful — grips in climbing.
The grip variations
- Open (drag) crimp — fingers relatively straight; safest on the tendons.
- Half crimp — fingers bent ~90°; versatile and highly trainable.
- Full crimp — thumb locked over the index finger; most powerful but hardest on the finger pulleys.
Facing a tiny edge, a climber uses a half crimp to keep control while protecting their fingers — saving the more powerful but riskier full crimp for the one desperate move where they truly need it, and chalking up first for grip.
Injury risk
Crimping concentrates high force on the small finger tendons and pulleys, especially in the full crimp — making it a leading cause of climbing finger injuries. Warm up thoroughly, build finger strength gradually over years, and don’t over-rely on full crimps. The opposite grip — open-handed on rounded holds — is the sloper; see crimp vs sloper.
The bottom line
A crimp is both a small edge and the bent-finger grip that lets you cling to it — indispensable for hard climbing but hard on the fingers. Favor the safer open and half crimps, reserve the powerful full crimp, and above all build finger strength slowly and warm up well, since crimping is a leading cause of the finger injuries that sideline climbers.
Frequently asked questions
What is a crimp in climbing?
A crimp refers both to a small climbing hold with a thin edge and to the grip used on it: you place your fingertips on the edge with your fingers bent at the first knuckle. Crimping lets you hold tiny edges that you couldn't with an open hand, and it's one of the most common grip types in climbing.
What's the difference between an open crimp, half crimp, and full crimp?
They differ in finger position. The open (drag) crimp keeps fingers relatively straight and is the safest on tendons; the half crimp bends the fingers about 90° at the first knuckle and is a versatile, trainable grip; the full crimp adds the thumb locked over the index finger for maximum power, but puts the most stress on the finger pulleys and carries the highest injury risk.
Why are crimps hard on your fingers?
Crimping concentrates high force on the small tendons and the pulley system that holds them to the finger bones, especially in the full crimp. This makes crimps a leading cause of climbing finger injuries like pulley strains and ruptures. Warming up thoroughly, building finger strength gradually over months and years, and not over-relying on full crimps reduce the risk.
Sources
- Grips & finger health — American Alpine Club
- Climbing injury prevention — UIAA