| Hold type | Small fingertip edge |
| Grip variations | Open, half, full crimp |
| Demands | Finger strength |
| Injury risk | High (pulleys) |
A crimp is a small, narrow hold that offers only enough room for fingertips, and the technique of gripping it. Climbers bend the fingers at the knuckles to load the edge, using an open, half, or full crimp depending on the hold. Crimping is powerful but a leading cause of finger injuries.
The three grips
From safest to most stressful: open crimp (fingers fairly straight), half crimp (middle knuckles bent ~90°), and full crimp (thumb locked over the nails). More bend means more power and more strain.
Where you meet them
Crimps dominate thin face climbing and hard boulder problems. They contrast with rounded slopers and pinches; see all hold types.
Injury & training
Crimping stresses finger pulleys, so warm up, favour open and half crimps, and build finger strength slowly on a hangboard rather than chasing it on hard climbs.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between an open, half, and full crimp?
An open crimp keeps fingers relatively straight and is gentlest on the tendons. A half crimp bends the middle knuckles to about 90 degrees for more power. A full crimp adds the thumb over the fingernails for maximum force but the highest injury risk.
Why is crimping bad for your fingers?
Crimping loads the finger's flexor tendon pulleys intensely, especially the A2 pulley. Over-gripping, full crimping, and ramping up too fast can strain or rupture a pulley — one of the most common climbing injuries. Warming up and limiting full crimps reduces risk.
How do you train crimp strength safely?
Build gradually with open-hand and half-crimp hangs on a hangboard, warm up thoroughly, and avoid maximal full crimps until well conditioned. Rest fingers between hard sessions, since tendons adapt slower than muscles.
Sources
- Finger health and climbing — American Alpine Club