| Shape | Metal figure-of-eight |
| Main use | Rappelling / descending |
| Trait | Sheds heat; twists rope |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
A figure-eight device is a metal ‘8’-shaped descender used mainly for rappelling, where the rope threads through the large ring to create friction. Once common for belaying too, it is now largely a rappel and rescue tool, valued for dissipating heat on long descents but prone to twisting the rope.
How it works
A bight of rope passes through the big ring and over the small one for friction while rappelling.
Figure-eight vs ATC
Most climbers now use a tube ATC, which twists the rope less; figure-eights persist in rescue and caving. See figure-eight vs ATC.
Frequently asked questions
What is a figure-eight device used for?
Primarily rappelling and lowering, and in rescue and caving. You pass a bight of rope through the large ring and over the small one to create friction. Its large surface sheds heat well on long descents, which is one reason rescuers favour it.
Figure-eight or ATC for rappelling?
Modern climbers mostly rappel with a tube-style ATC, which is lighter, more compact, and twists the rope less. Figure-eights remain popular in rescue, caving, and canyoneering for their heat dissipation and smooth feed on long, heavy rappels.
Do figure-eight devices twist the rope?
Yes — a common drawback is that they tend to put twists and kinks into the rope during a rappel. This is one reason they've fallen out of favour for everyday climbing in favour of tube devices.
Sources
- Rappel devices — American Alpine Club