Key takeaways
- A flake is a thin, partly detached slab of rock separated along a crack, used as a hold or feature.
- Climbers grip its edge (often laybacking), pull on it, or jam behind it.
- Flakes range from small holds to large flake cracks.
- Crucial skill: assess whether a flake is solid and attached, not loose — a loose flake is dangerous.
What a flake is
A flake is a thin, partly detached slab or plate of rock, separated from the main face along a crack, that climbers use as a hold or feature. Flakes range from small edge-like holds to large features that form ‘flake cracks,’ and they’re a common feature on many rock faces.
How climbers use them
- Grip the edge — often laybacking, pulling on the edge while feet push the wall.
- Pull on it as a regular hold, or undercling it.
- Jam behind it where there’s a crack.
Reaching a large flake, a climber first taps it and listens — it rings solid, not hollow — then laybacks its edge, leaning off it while smearing their feet on the wall, confident it’s well attached to the rock.
Checking a flake is solid
Because flakes are partly detached, some are solid and some are loose — and a breaking flake can cause a fall and injure climbers below. The key skill is assessing a flake before trusting it: tap it to listen for a hollow (‘drummy’) sound, check how it’s attached, and be cautious with thin or loose flakes. Flakes are one of many climbing holds and features.
The bottom line
A flake is a thin, partly detached slab of rock that serves as a climbing hold or feature — gripped by its edge (often laybacked), pulled on, underclung, or jammed behind. Flakes range from small holds to large flake cracks. Because they're partly detached, the crucial skill is judging whether a flake is solid or loose before you trust it, since a breaking flake is dangerous.
Frequently asked questions
What is a flake in climbing?
A flake is a thin, partly detached slab or plate of rock, separated from the main face along a crack, that climbers use as a hold or feature. You might grip the edge of a flake, pull on it, or jam behind it. Flakes range from small edge-like holds to large features that form 'flake cracks' you can layback or jam.
How do climbers use flakes?
Depending on the flake, you can grip its outer edge (often laybacking, pulling on the edge while pushing your feet against the wall), use it as a regular hold to pull down on, undercling it, or jam your hands behind it where there's a crack. Large flakes create flake cracks that are climbed by laybacking or jamming. The technique depends on the flake's size, orientation, and how it's attached.
Are flakes safe to climb on?
Often yes, but not always — because flakes are partly detached, some are solid and well-bonded to the rock while others are loose and could break off or shift, which is dangerous (a breaking flake can cause a fall and injure climbers below). A key skill is assessing a flake before trusting it: tapping it to listen for a hollow sound, checking how it's attached, and being cautious with thin, loose, or 'drummy' flakes.
Sources
- Rock features & climbing — American Alpine Club
- Climbing technique — UIAA