| Type | Passive protection (slight cam) |
| Best in | Medium to wide cracks |
| Pros | Cheap, light, durable |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
A hex (hexentric) is a passive piece of trad protection — a six-sided metal chamber on a wire or cord that wedges into a crack and can also cam slightly when pulled. Larger and lighter than cams for the same crack size, hexes are a cheap, durable option for medium to wide cracks, though they have been largely superseded by cams.
How it works
It wedges like a nut in one orientation and cams slightly in another, a form of passive protection.
Hexes vs cams
Cams are faster and work in parallel cracks; hexes are cheaper and lighter. See hexes vs cams.
Good to know
A budget-friendly choice for wide cracks and a first trad rack.
Frequently asked questions
What is a hex in climbing?
A hex is a hollow, six-sided metal block on a wire or cord that you slot into a crack. Its asymmetric shape lets it wedge like a nut in one orientation and cam slightly — rotating to grip harder — in another, covering medium to wide cracks cheaply.
Are hexes better than cams?
Cams are faster to place and work in parallel cracks, so most climbers prefer them. But hexes are far cheaper, lighter, and more durable for their size, and some climbers carry a few for wide placements, winter use, or budget racks.
Are hexes still used?
Less than they once were, having been largely replaced by cams for convenience, but they remain a valid, economical choice — especially for beginners building a first rack, for wide cracks, and in icy conditions where moving parts can freeze.
Sources
- Trad protection — American Alpine Club