| Used in | Crack climbing |
| Jam types | Finger, hand, fist, foot |
| Principle | Wedge / torque to lock |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
Jamming is the core crack-climbing technique of wedging part of the body — fingers, hands, fists, or feet — into a crack and subtly expanding or torquing it to create a secure hold. Unlike face climbing, jamming uses the crack itself rather than holds on the rock surface.
Sized to the crack
Jams scale with crack width: finger locks in thin cracks, hand jams in hand-width cracks, fist jams in wider ones, and stacking in offwidths. Feet twist in too.
How it works
You insert the hand or fingers and then expand or torque to lock against the crack walls. A good jam is solid enough to hang from and even rest on.
Good to know
Crack climbing rewards technique over grip; many climbers tape their hands to protect the skin while learning to jam.
Frequently asked questions
What are the different types of jams?
Jams are sized to the crack: finger jams and finger locks for thin cracks, hand jams for hand-width cracks, fist jams for wider cracks, and stacking or chicken-wings for offwidths. Feet jam too, by twisting the toe into the crack.
Does jamming hurt?
It can, especially while learning — the backs of the hands often get scraped, which is why many crack climbers tape their hands. Done well, a hand jam is secure and surprisingly restful, but it takes practice to trust and to do without pain.
Is jamming harder than face climbing?
It's different rather than strictly harder. Jamming relies on technique and trust in the wedge rather than grip strength, so it often feels awkward at first. Many strong face climbers struggle on cracks until they learn to jam efficiently.
Sources
- Crack climbing technique — American Alpine Club