| Type | Directional friction hitch |
| Grips | One direction only |
| Works with | Cord or webbing |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
The klemheist is a friction hitch, similar to a prusik, tied with cord or webbing around a rope so it grips when loaded and slides when relaxed. Unlike the prusik it is directional — gripping only when pulled one way — and it slides more easily, making it useful for ascending a rope and as a rappel backup.
Klemheist vs prusik
The prusik grips both ways; the klemheist grips one way, slides easier, and works with webbing. See klemheist vs prusik.
Where it’s used
Ascending a rope and backing up rappels, alongside the autoblock.
Tie it correctly
Because it’s directional, orient it for the expected load. See all climbing knots.
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between a klemheist and a prusik?
A prusik grips when pulled in either direction and is symmetrical; a klemheist grips only when pulled one way but slides more easily and can be tied with webbing as well as cord. Climbers pick the klemheist when they need easy one-handed sliding in a known load direction.
Can you tie a klemheist with webbing?
Yes — that's one of its advantages over the prusik. The klemheist holds well with a loop of webbing or cord, which is handy when you don't have a dedicated prusik loop available.
Which direction does a klemheist grip?
It grips when loaded toward the end where the wraps are neatly stacked and the loop emerges, and slides when pushed from the other side. Because it's directional, you must tie it the right way round for the load you expect.
Sources
- Friction hitches — American Alpine Club