| Type | Tube device with guide mode |
| Belays | 1-2 followers off the anchor |
| Auto-locks | If a follower falls |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
A plaquette is a tube-style belay device with extra slots that allow ‘guide mode’ — belaying one or two following climbers directly off the anchor, with the device automatically locking if a follower falls. This makes plaquettes the standard choice for multi-pitch climbing, where they free the leader’s hands at the belay.
How guide mode works
Rigged to the anchor, the device pinches the rope and locks if the follower weights it — and can bring up two seconds at once.
Versatile
It still works as a normal tube ATC for leading and rappelling — ideal for multi-pitch.
Frequently asked questions
What is guide mode?
Guide mode is a way of rigging certain belay devices directly to the anchor to belay a follower, so the device pinches and locks the rope automatically if the follower weights it. It lets the belayer manage the rope with less effort and even bring up two seconds at once.
What is a plaquette?
A plaquette is a tube-style belay device with an extra attachment hole and slotted design that enables guide mode. In normal use it works like an ordinary tube device for belaying a leader or rappelling; rigged to the anchor it becomes an auto-locking follower belay.
Can you belay two followers at once?
Yes — in guide mode a plaquette can belay two seconds on separate strands simultaneously, each locking independently. This is a major efficiency on multi-pitch routes with a party of three, which is why guides favour these devices.
Sources
- Multi-pitch belaying — American Alpine Club