| Type | Self-adjusting two-point anchor |
| Uses | Doubled loop + limiter knots |
| Strengths | Equalizes, adjusts, redundant |
| Difficulty | Advanced |
The quad is an anchor rigging method that uses a doubled loop of cord or sling clipped across two points, with two strands isolated by limiter knots to form a master point. It equalizes well between the points, adjusts to moderate changes in load direction, and stays redundant if one strand is cut — making it a popular modern two-bolt anchor.
How it works
A doubled loop with two limiter knots creates a sliding-but-limited master point between two bolts — strong equalization with limited extension.
Quad vs sliding X
It fixes the sliding X’s shock-load weakness. See sliding X vs quad for building anchors.
Educational only; not a substitute for instruction.
Frequently asked questions
What is a quad anchor?
The quad is a two-point anchor built from a loop of cord or sling doubled over and tied with two limiter knots, leaving a pocket of strands that forms the master point. Clipping into two of the four strands gives a strong, redundant, self-adjusting attachment between two bolts.
When do you use a quad?
It's ideal for fixed two-bolt anchors, common at the tops of sport routes and multi-pitch belays, where it can be pre-tied and reused. It's less suited to anchors with three or more very spread-out pieces, where a cordelette may rig more cleanly.
Quad or sliding X?
Both self-adjust to pull direction, but the quad limits extension with its knots and keeps redundancy if a strand is cut, addressing the sliding X's main weakness. Many climbers now favour the quad for two-point anchors for this reason.
Sources
- Anchor rigging — American Alpine Club