Key takeaways
- A screwgate carabiner is a locking carabiner with a manually screwed sleeve that locks the gate shut.
- It's simple, reliable, and inexpensive, used wherever a secure connection matters.
- Uses: belaying, rappelling, anchors, and personal attachment.
- Drawback: you must remember to screw it shut and check it — auto-lockers do this themselves.
From the screw-threaded locking sleeve.
What a screwgate carabiner is
A screwgate carabiner is a locking carabiner secured by a threaded sleeve that you manually screw over the gate to lock it shut, preventing accidental opening. It’s the most common and straightforward type of locking carabiner.
Pros and cons
- Pros: simple, reliable, inexpensive, and lockable only when you want (handy when clipping and unclipping frequently).
- Cons: it depends on you to remember to screw it shut and check it — an unlocked screwgate is no safer than a non-locker. The sleeve can occasionally vibrate loose or jam with grit or ice.
Clipping into an anchor, a climber attaches with a screwgate, screws the sleeve down, and gives it a glance and a squeeze to confirm it’s locked — the simple, deliberate check that makes the connection secure.
Screwgate vs auto-lock
A screwgate locks only when you screw the sleeve; an auto-locking (twist-lock) carabiner locks itself when you release the gate. Auto-lockers remove the risk of forgetting but are fiddlier one-handed and with gloves. Many climbers use screwgates for general use and auto-lockers for fail-safe spots like the belay carabiner — often a pear-shaped HMS. The non-locking counterpart is the wiregate.
The bottom line
A screwgate carabiner is the simple, reliable locking carabiner: a threaded sleeve you screw over the gate to lock it shut for belaying, rappelling, anchors, and attachment. Its one catch is that it depends on you to do it up and check it — unlike auto-lockers that lock themselves. Cheap and dependable, it's the workhorse locker, used wherever security matters.
Frequently asked questions
What is a screwgate carabiner?
A screwgate carabiner is a locking carabiner whose gate is secured by a threaded sleeve that you manually screw down over the gate opening to lock it shut. Screwing the sleeve closed prevents the gate from opening accidentally, making the connection secure. It's the most common and straightforward type of locking carabiner.
What are the pros and cons of a screwgate?
Pros: it's simple, reliable, inexpensive, and lets you lock it only when you want (handy when you need to clip and unclip frequently). Cons: it depends on the user to remember to screw the sleeve closed and to check it, since an unlocked screwgate is no more secure than a non-locker. The sleeve can also occasionally vibrate loose or jam with grit or ice, so climbers check it before trusting it.
How does a screwgate compare to an auto-locking carabiner?
A screwgate locks only when you manually screw the sleeve; an auto-locking (twist-lock) carabiner locks itself automatically when you release the gate, requiring a deliberate multi-step action to open. Auto-lockers remove the risk of forgetting to lock, but are fiddlier to operate one-handed and can be harder in cold or with gloves. Many climbers use screwgates for general use and auto-lockers where they want fail-safe locking, like the belay carabiner.
Sources
- Carabiners & gear — American Alpine Club
- Equipment standards — UIAA