Sub-category Safety

What Is Spotting in Bouldering?

Spotting is the technique of guiding a falling boulderer to help them land safely on the crash pads, protecting their head and steering their body upright rather than trying to catch their full weight. A spotter stands ready with hands up, and good spotting is a key safety practice in bouldering, where there is no rope.

What Is a Quad Anchor?

The quad is an anchor rigging method that uses a doubled loop of cord or sling clipped across two points, with two strands isolated by limiter knots to form a master point. It equalizes well between the points, adjusts to moderate changes in load direction, and stays redundant if one strand is cut — making it a popular modern two-bolt anchor.

What Is a Sliding X Anchor?

The sliding X is a self-equalizing anchor rigging method where a sling is clipped between two points with a twist in one strand, letting the master point slide to follow the direction of pull. It adapts to changing load directions but can extend and shock-load the remaining point if one fails, so it is used carefully, often with limiter knots.

What Is the Master Point of an Anchor?

The master point is the single, strong, central point of a climbing anchor where all the individual pieces are brought together and equalized. The belay device, the climber's tether, and the rope all clip into the master point, keeping the anchor simple, redundant, and easy to check. It is also called the power point.

What Is a Ground Fall in Climbing?

A ground fall, also called 'decking', is when a climber falls all the way to the ground — the most dangerous kind of climbing fall. The risk is highest low on a route before much protection is placed, and when there's excess slack in the system. Avoiding ground falls drives many belaying and protection habits, like clipping early and spotting boulderers.

What Does Runout Mean in Climbing?

A runout describes a long stretch of climbing between pieces of protection, where a fall would be long because the last bolt or piece of gear is far below. 'Runout' routes are bold and committing, demanding confidence that you won't fall, and a route's runout sections contribute to its seriousness beyond its technical grade.

What Is Z-Clipping?

Z-clipping is a lead-climbing error where the climber accidentally pulls up rope from below the previous quickdraw to clip the next bolt, creating a 'Z' shape in the rope. It dramatically increases rope drag, can pull the climber off balance, and means the new clip provides little protection. The fix is to clip rope coming from above the last draw.

What Is a Soft Catch in Climbing?

A soft catch is a belaying technique where the belayer adds a little slack or jumps slightly as they catch a leader's fall, letting their body absorb some energy so the climber stops more gently. It reduces the jarring force of a fall, protecting the climber and the gear, and is a hallmark of attentive lead belaying.

What Is Back-Clipping?

Back-clipping is a dangerous lead-climbing error where the rope is clipped through a quickdraw the wrong way, so it runs up against the carabiner's gate side rather than the spine. In a fall, the rope can press the gate open and unclip itself from the draw. Climbers learn to clip so the rope exits over the front of the carabiner.

What Is Fall Factor in Climbing?

Fall factor is a number describing the severity of a climbing fall, calculated as the distance fallen divided by the length of rope available to absorb it. It ranges from 0 to about 2 — higher factors mean harsher, higher-force falls. Because it depends on rope length, a short fall low on a pitch can be more severe than a longer one higher up.