Passive protection (nuts, hexes) has no moving parts and holds by wedging into a constriction; active protection (cams) uses a spring mechanism to grip parallel cracks. Passive gear is lighter, cheaper, and durable; active gear is more versatile but heavier and pricier.
| Aspect | Passive Protection | Active Protection |
|---|---|---|
| Mechanism | None — it wedges | Spring-loaded |
| Examples | Nuts, hexes, offset nuts | Cams, micro-cams |
| Crack type | Constrictions | Parallel & flaring |
| Weight & cost | Light, cheap | Heavy, expensive |
| Durability | Very high | Needs maintenance |
Choose Passive Protection if…
- The crack tapers or constricts
- You're on a budget or saving weight
- You want bomber anchor pieces
- You value durability
Choose Active Protection if…
- The crack is parallel-sided
- You need fast placements
- You want maximum versatility
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
What's an example of passive vs active protection?
Passive: nuts (stoppers), hexes, and offset nuts, which wedge into the rock. Active: spring-loaded camming devices (cams), including micro-cams, whose lobes expand to grip. Tricams can work in either mode.
Is passive protection safe?
Yes — a well-placed nut in good rock is extremely strong and reliable, and passive gear is the historic foundation of trad climbing. Safety comes from finding solid constrictions and seating pieces well.
Which should I buy first?
Most beginners start with a set of nuts (passive) — cheap, light, and great for learning placements — then add cams (active) for parallel cracks. A versatile rack ends up with both.
Related: Passive Protection · Active Protection · Nut · Cam · Trad climbing