Hexes vs Cams

Hexes and cams both protect medium-to-wide cracks but work differently. A hex is a cheap, light, passive six-sided wedge that also cams slightly; a cam is an active spring-loaded device that grips parallel cracks and places fast. Cams dominate today, but hexes remain a budget and winter option.

Aspect Hexes Cams
Type Passive (slight cam) Active (spring lobes)
Crack type Constrictions & wide Parallel & flaring
Speed to place Slower Fast
Cost & weight Cheap, light Expensive, heavier
Cold / ice No moving parts to freeze Can freeze or clog

Choose hexes when…

  • You're building a budget rack
  • You need wide-crack protection cheaply
  • Conditions are icy or wintry
  • You value durability

Choose cams when…

  • The crack is parallel-sided
  • You need fast placements
  • You want maximum convenience

Verdict

Cams have largely replaced hexes for convenience, but hexes are a cheap, reliable, freeze-proof option for beginners and wide cracks. Many climbers carry a few hexes alongside cams for big sizes.

Frequently asked questions

What's the difference between hexes and cams?

A hex is a passive six-sided metal wedge that holds by wedging (and cams slightly); a cam is an active spring-loaded device whose lobes expand to grip parallel cracks. Cams place faster and protect more crack shapes; hexes are cheaper, lighter, and freeze-proof.

Are hexes still used?

Less than they once were, having been largely replaced by cams, but they remain a valid, economical choice — especially for beginner racks, wide cracks, and icy conditions where moving parts can freeze.

Which is cheaper, hexes or cams?

Hexes are far cheaper than cams, which is a big reason they appeal to beginners building a first rack on a budget. A full set of cams is one of the most expensive parts of a trad kit.

Related: Hexes · Cams · Nut · Passive protection