A gaston and a sidepull both use a vertically oriented hold, but in opposite directions. You pull a sidepull toward your body, leaning away; you push a gaston away from your body, thumb down and elbow out, like prying open elevator doors. Sidepulls are more natural; gastons are shoulder-intensive.
| Aspect | Gaston | Sidepull |
|---|---|---|
| Direction | Push outward | Pull inward |
| Hand position | Thumb down, elbow out | Thumb up, pull to body |
| Body | Press against it | Lean away from it |
| Strain | Shoulder-intensive | More natural |
| Hold | Vertical edge | Vertical edge |
Use a gaston when…
- A hold faces away and an inward pull won't work
- You're between two opposing holds
- You can press outward against it
Use a sidepull when…
- A vertical hold faces toward you
- You can lean away to oppose it
- You want a more natural, restful grip
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between a gaston and a sidepull?
Both use a vertically oriented hold, but you pull a sidepull toward your body and push a gaston away from it (thumb down, elbow out). A sidepull is the more natural inward pull; a gaston generates outward force and is harder on the shoulder.
Why are gastons tiring?
Pushing outward with a bent arm loads the shoulder and upper arm in a relatively weak, exposed position, so gastons demand shoulder strength and good body tension. They feel powerful and fatiguing compared with a straightforward pull.
Where does the name gaston come from?
It's named after the celebrated French alpinist Gaston Rébuffat, with whom the outward-pushing grip became associated in climbing lore.
Related: Gaston · Sidepull · Undercling · Climbing holds