| Type | Grip / movement |
| Direction | Push outward, thumb down |
| Opposite of | Sidepull |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
Named after French climber Gaston Rébuffat, associated with the technique.
A gaston is a grip where you push outward on a hold with the thumb pointing down and the elbow out, as if prying open elevator doors. It lets you use vertically oriented holds that face the wrong way for a normal pull, but is shoulder-intensive.
The move is named after French alpinist Gaston Rébuffat.
How it works
With the thumb down and elbow flared, you press outward against the hold to create tension that keeps you on the wall. It’s effectively the opposite of a sidepull, which you pull toward you.
When to use it
Reach for a gaston when a hold faces away from your body and an inward pull won’t work — common between two opposing holds.
Good to know
Gastons load the shoulder in a weak position, so use good body tension and don’t over-rely on them. See all hold and grip types.
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between a gaston and a sidepull?
Both use a vertically oriented hold, but you pull a sidepull toward your body and push a gaston away from it. A gaston has the thumb down and elbow out, generating outward force, while a sidepull is a more natural inward pull.
Why is a gaston so tiring?
Pushing outward with a bent arm loads the shoulder and upper arm in a relatively weak, exposed position. Gastons demand shoulder strength and good body tension, so they feel powerful and fatiguing compared with a straightforward pull.
Where does the name gaston come from?
It's named after the celebrated French alpinist Gaston Rébuffat, with whom the outward-pushing grip became associated in climbing lore.
Sources
- Climbing grips — American Alpine Club