Key takeaways
- A gaston is gripping a hold thumb-down, elbow out, and pushing outward to create tension.
- It's like prying open a sliding door — the opposite direction of a sidepull.
- It's used on vertical holds/edges where you need to pull away from your body.
- It relies on shoulder strength and works best in opposition to another hold or foot.
Named after French climber Gaston Rébuffat.
What a gaston is
A gaston is a climbing technique where you grip a hold with your thumb pointing down and elbow pointing out, then push outward — sideways, away from your body — to create tension. The classic image is prying open a sliding door or elevator doors. It’s essentially the opposite direction of a sidepull.
When to use one
Reach for a gaston on a vertical edge, crack, or hold oriented so a normal pull or sidepull would face the wrong way — often a hold facing toward your centerline or away from your body. It lets you generate tension and move past holds that you can’t simply pull inward on, and it usually works in opposition to a foot or another hand.
Facing a vertical seam with no holds to pull on, a boulderer grips an edge thumb-down with elbow out and pushes against it — pressing it like a sliding door — while pushing the opposite way on a foothold, creating the tension to reach through to the next hold.
Technique and the shoulders
Gastons load the shoulder in a less powerful, more vulnerable outward-pushing position, so they demand shoulder strength and control. Engage them with good body position and supporting strength to stay effective and protect the shoulder. The gaston is one of several ways to use directional holds, alongside the sidepull and crimp.
The bottom line
The gaston is climbing's 'open the sliding door' move — gripping a hold thumb-down and elbow-out, then pushing outward to create tension on holds that face the wrong way for a normal pull. It's a useful tool for vertical holds and tricky sequences, relies on shoulder strength and opposition, and rewards control to protect the shoulder.
Frequently asked questions
What is a gaston in climbing?
A gaston is a way of using a hold where you grip it with your thumb pointing down and your elbow pointing out, then push outward (away from your body) rather than pulling toward it. The motion is like prying open a sliding door or elevator doors. It lets you use vertically oriented holds that face away from you.
When do you use a gaston?
Use a gaston on a vertical edge, crack, or hold that's oriented so a normal pull or sidepull wouldn't work — typically a hold facing away from your body or toward your centerline. It's especially useful for moving past a hold or generating tension when the available grips don't let you pull inward. It often works in opposition to a foot or another hand.
Are gastons hard on the shoulders?
They can be. Gastons load the shoulder in an outward-pushing position that's less powerful and more vulnerable than a normal pull, so they demand shoulder strength and stability and can stress the shoulder if done carelessly. Engaging the move with control, good body position, and supporting strength helps keep it safe and effective.
Sources
- Climbing movement — American Alpine Club
- Technique skills — UIAA