| Type | Footwork technique |
| Uses | Inside or outside shoe edge |
| Best on | Small, defined footholds |
| Difficulty | Beginner |
Edging is a footwork technique where you stand on a small hold using the stiff edge of your climbing shoe, usually the inside edge near the big toe. It gives precise, powerful purchase on tiny ledges and crystals, and works best on vertical to slightly overhanging rock with defined footholds.
How it’s done
Place the edge of the shoe — most often the inside edge by the big toe — squarely on the hold, keep your heel level, and stand up through the foot. Precision matters: look at the foothold, place deliberately, and don’t readjust once weighted.
When to use it
Edging shines on small, positive footholds on vertical rock. On blank slab with no edges, switch to smearing instead. Stiffer climbing shoes support hard edging; softer shoes favour smearing.
Common mistakes
Dropping the heel, placing the toe imprecisely, and pulling weight off the foot all cause slips. Trust the edge and keep weight stacked over it.
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between edging and smearing?
Edging stands on the firm edge of the shoe on a defined foothold, while smearing presses the sole flat against blank rock for friction. Edging suits small, positive footholds; smearing suits slabs and featureless rock. Most climbers switch between them constantly.
Should you edge with the inside or outside of the shoe?
Inside edging (near the big toe) is the most common and powerful, used when facing the wall. Outside edging uses the little-toe side and pairs with techniques like backstepping and drop-knees on steeper terrain to bring your hips closer to the rock.
Why do my feet slip when edging?
Usually because the heel is dropped, weight isn't over the foot, or the shoe is too soft for the hold. Keep your heel level or slightly raised, trust the edge, and use a stiffer shoe for hard edging on tiny holds.
Sources
- Climbing footwork — American Alpine Club