| Type | Footwork technique |
| Grip from | Friction (flat sole) |
| Best on | Slabs, blank rock |
| Difficulty | Beginner |
Smearing is a footwork technique where you press the sole of your climbing shoe flat against the rock to grip through friction, rather than standing on a defined hold. It’s essential on slabs and featureless faces, relying on sticky rubber, body position, and trusting your feet on seemingly blank rock.
How it’s done
Maximise sole contact, keep weight stacked over the foot, and drop the heel a little to load the rubber. Move smoothly — friction holds best under steady, committed weight.
When to use it
Smearing is the bread and butter of slab climbing and any blank section without footholds. Where a defined edge exists, edging is more secure. Softer shoes smear best.
Common mistakes
Leaning into the wall lifts weight off the smear and causes slips; stay over your feet and trust the rubber.
Frequently asked questions
How do you smear when climbing?
Place as much of the shoe's sole as possible flat against the rock, keep your weight directly over the foot, and drop your heel slightly to increase rubber contact. Stand up smoothly and trust the friction — hesitation and leaning into the wall both reduce grip.
When should you smear instead of edge?
Smear when there are no defined footholds — on slabs, polished rock, or blank sections between holds. Edge when there's a positive edge to stand on. Slab climbing is mostly smearing; steep face climbing is mostly edging.
Do soft or stiff shoes smear better?
Softer, more flexible shoes smear better because more rubber conforms to the rock. Very stiff edging shoes have less feel for friction. This is why slab specialists often choose softer climbing shoes.
Sources
- Climbing footwork — American Alpine Club