Key takeaways
- Edging stands on small footholds using the edge of the climbing shoe's sole.
- Inside edging (big-toe side) is most common; outside edging (little-toe side) suits certain body positions.
- It relies on a stiff shoe, precise placement, and weighting the edge directly.
- It's the precise, edge-based counterpart to friction-based smearing.
What edging is
Edging is a footwork technique where you stand on a small foothold using the edge of your climbing shoe’s sole — typically the inside edge near the big toe, sometimes the outside edge near the little toe. It gives precise, powerful contact on small edges and ledges, in contrast to smearing, which presses the flat of the shoe onto holdless rock for friction.
Inside vs outside edging
- Inside edging (big-toe side) — the most common; precise and powerful when facing the wall.
- Outside edging (little-toe side) — useful in certain body positions, like turning a hip in or in a drop-knee.
On a vertical face dotted with small edges, a climber places the inside edge of their stiff shoe precisely on a dime-sized ledge, weights it directly, and stands up — trusting the edge to hold where a sloppy, flat placement would skate off.
How to edge well
Place the edge precisely on the foothold, keep your heel stable, and weight the edge directly by standing over your foot. Stiffer climbing shoes support edging on tiny holds better than soft ones. It’s the edge-based counterpart to friction smearing (used on slabs), and the footwork partner to handholds like the crimp.
The bottom line
Edging is the precise footwork of standing on small edges with your shoe's edge — usually the powerful inside edge by the big toe, sometimes the outside edge for tricky body positions. It rewards a stiff shoe, accurate placement, and committing your weight to the edge. The edge-based counterpart to friction smearing, it's a foundational skill for climbing on featured rock.
Frequently asked questions
What is edging in climbing?
Edging is a footwork technique where you stand on a small foothold using the edge of your climbing shoe's sole — usually the inside edge near the big toe. It gives precise, powerful contact on small edges and ledges, in contrast to smearing, which presses the flat of the shoe onto holdless rock for friction.
What's the difference between inside and outside edging?
Inside edging uses the edge of the shoe along the big-toe side and is the most common, offering precision and power facing the wall. Outside edging uses the edge along the little-toe side, which is useful in certain body positions — such as when turning a hip into the wall or in drop-knee positions — to reach efficiently. Skilled climbers switch between them as the moves require.
How do you edge effectively?
Place the edge of your shoe precisely on the foothold (the inside edge near the big toe for power), keep your heel relatively stable, and weight the edge directly by standing up over your foot. Stiffer climbing shoes support edging on tiny holds better than soft ones. Precise placement and trusting your feet are key — sloppy or tentative edging slips off small holds.
Sources
- Climbing footwork — American Alpine Club
- Movement skills — UIAA