| Means | Hardest part of a climb |
| Sets | Much of the route's grade |
| Can be | One or several per climb |
| Difficulty | Beginner concept |
The crux is the hardest move or section of a climb — the part most likely to stop you. A route’s grade is largely set by its crux, and climbers focus their beta, strength, and mental preparation on getting through it. A climb can have one crux or several.
Why it matters
Because the hardest section disproportionately sets the grade, sending a route usually comes down to unlocking the crux. Climbers rehearse crux beta and build the exact strength it demands.
One crux or many
Short climbs often have a single crux; long pitches may have several, or be ‘sustained’ with continuous difficulty and no single hardest move.
Good to know
On a project, climbers frequently isolate and rehearse the crux before trying to link the whole route into a redpoint.
Frequently asked questions
What does crux mean in climbing?
The crux is the single hardest move or sequence on a climb — the part that demands the most strength, technique, or commitment, and where climbers are most likely to fall. Sending the route usually comes down to solving the crux.
Can a climb have more than one crux?
Yes. Long routes often have several distinct crux sections, sometimes called the first crux, second crux, and so on. A 'sustained' route has continuous difficulty rather than one isolated crux.
How do climbers get past the crux?
By refining beta, building the specific strength the moves require, resting beforehand where possible, and committing mentally. On a hard project, climbers often rehearse the crux in isolation before linking the whole route.
Sources
- Climbing terms — American Alpine Club