| What it is | Holding a bent-arm static position |
| Lets you | Reach with the free hand |
| Requires | Pulling strength + body position |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
A lock-off is a technique where you pull a hold in toward your body and hold your bent arm in a static, locked position, freeing the other hand to reach the next hold. Locking off requires pulling strength and good body position, and lets climbers make controlled, static moves instead of dynamic ones.
Why it matters
A strong lock-off means you can reach precisely in control rather than lunging — the static alternative to a deadpoint or dyno.
Training it
Hold bent-arm positions across the range of motion on a bar or hangboard, and climb deliberately statically.
Frequently asked questions
What is a lock-off?
A lock-off is holding yourself in place with one arm bent and pulling the hold in to your body, so you stay static while the other hand moves to the next hold. The stronger your lock-off, the more controlled and precise your reaches can be.
How do you train lock-off strength?
Practise holding bent-arm positions at different angles — pull-up holds at the top, at 90 degrees, and just off straight — on a bar or hangboard, and climb deliberately statically. The hardest position to hold is around a fully bent arm, so train across the range.
What's the difference between a lock-off and a deadpoint?
A lock-off is a static hold that lets you reach in control, while a deadpoint is a small dynamic move that catches a hold at the apex of motion. When a hold is too far to lock off to statically, climbers deadpoint or dyno instead.
Sources
- Climbing movement — American Alpine Club