Key takeaways
- A pinch is a hold you grip by squeezing between the thumb and fingers, not pulling on an edge.
- Pinches vary in width and rely heavily on thumb and grip strength.
- Body position matters — keeping the pinch loaded in a favorable direction makes it more secure.
- Pinch strength is a distinct, trainable aspect of grip.
What a pinch is
A pinch is a climbing hold that you grip by squeezing it between your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other, rather than pulling down on an edge. Pinches come in many widths — from narrow to wide, two-finger to full-hand — and rely heavily on thumb and grip strength.
How to grip one
Squeeze firmly with your thumb opposing your fingers, and mind your body position: align your weight and direction of pull so the pinch is loaded favorably, often by positioning your hips and feet to pull more straight down on it. Wider pinches demand more open-hand and thumb strength, and good footwork to offload the grip helps.
Reaching a wide block-like hold with no edge to grab, a climber pinches it — thumb squeezing hard against the fingers — and shifts their feet to pull more directly down on it, making the otherwise slippery pinch feel secure enough to move off.
Why thumb strength matters
The pinch grip depends on the thumb actively squeezing in opposition to the fingers, making pinch strength distinct from the finger strength used on crimps — and a specific quality climbers train (often via hangboard work and pinch blocks). It’s one of the family of grip types alongside crimps and rounded slopers. See more climbing holds.
The bottom line
A pinch is a hold you grip by squeezing between thumb and fingers rather than pulling on an edge — so it lives or dies by thumb and squeeze strength. Pinches range from narrow to wide, and good body position that loads them favorably makes them far more secure. Pinch strength is its own trainable skill, distinct from the finger strength of crimping.
Frequently asked questions
What is a pinch in climbing?
A pinch is a climbing hold that you grip by squeezing it between your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other, like pinching an object. Unlike a crimp or edge, where you pull down, a pinch is held by the opposing squeeze of thumb and fingers. Pinches range from narrow to wide and from two-finger to full-hand grips.
How do you grip a pinch effectively?
Squeeze firmly with your thumb opposing your fingers, and pay attention to body position: keep your weight and the direction of pull aligned so the pinch is loaded favorably, often by getting your hips and feet positioned to pull more straight down on it. Wider pinches demand more open-hand and thumb strength. Good footwork to reduce the load on the grip also helps.
Why does thumb strength matter for pinches?
Because the pinch grip depends on the thumb actively squeezing in opposition to the fingers — without thumb engagement, you can't pinch. This makes pinch strength distinct from the finger strength used on crimps, and it's a specific quality climbers train (since many people's thumbs are relatively underdeveloped). Stronger thumbs and a solid squeeze make pinches far more secure.
Sources
- Holds & grip technique — American Alpine Club
- Climbing movement — UIAA