What Is a Pinch in Climbing?

A pinch is a climbing hold you grip by squeezing between your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other, like pinching a block. Pinches demand thumb and grip strength and range from wide, hard-to-span shapes to narrow ones. Body position that keeps the pinch loaded straight down makes it more secure.

ClimbingHolds & GripsBeginner
A pinch is a climbing hold you grip by squeezing between your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other, like pinching a block. Pinches demand thumb and grip strength and range from wide, hard-to-span shapes to narrow ones. Body position that keeps the pinch loaded straight down makes it more secure.
GripThumb opposes fingers
DemandsThumb & grip strength
WidthNarrow to very wide
DifficultyBeginner to advanced

A pinch is a climbing hold you grip by squeezing between your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other, like pinching a block. Pinches demand thumb and grip strength and range from wide, hard-to-span shapes to narrow ones. Body position that keeps the pinch loaded straight down makes it more secure.

How to use one

Engage the thumb actively against the fingers and position your body so the pinch loads downward, not outward.

Training

Pinch strength is partly separate from crimp strength — train it on pinch blocks and wide holds.

Good to know

See all hold and grip types.

Frequently asked questions

What is a pinch grip in climbing?

A pinch is any hold you secure by squeezing it between your thumb and fingers. The thumb does real work, opposing the fingers, which makes pinches distinct from holds you simply pull down on. Wide pinches that span your whole hand are especially demanding.

How do you train pinch strength?

Climb on pinch holds, and supplement with pinch blocks or wide holds you can hang or lift, focusing on active thumb engagement. Because the thumb is involved, pinch strength is partly separate from crimp strength and benefits from dedicated work.

Why are pinches hard?

They rely on thumb strength and on squeezing rather than hanging, which most climbers train less. Wide pinches also force your hand open, reducing power, and they're insecure unless your body position keeps the load running straight down the hold.

Sources