| Modes | Passive or camming |
| Excels in | Pockets, shallow placements |
| Best on | Limestone, trad routes |
| Difficulty | Advanced |
A Tricam is a piece of climbing protection that can be placed passively, like a nut, or set in a camming mode where it pivots on a point and grips when loaded. This versatility lets Tricams protect pockets and shallow placements where other gear struggles, making them a niche but valued addition to a trad rack.
Two modes
Slotted like a nut in a constriction (passive), or set point-first so loading makes it bite (camming).
When to use it
Pockets, horizontal cracks, and limestone where cams and nuts won’t seat. A specialised trad problem-solver.
Frequently asked questions
What is a Tricam?
A Tricam is a single piece of protection on a sling that works two ways: slotted like a nut in a constriction, or set in 'camming mode' where the point digs in and the rails grip when weight pulls the sling. This dual nature makes it unusually versatile.
How does a Tricam work?
In camming mode you seat the pointed end in a pocket or dimple with the rails against the opposite wall; loading the sling levers the point to bite harder. In passive mode it simply wedges into a narrowing crack like a chunky nut.
When do you use a Tricam?
When other gear won't fit — shallow pockets, horizontal cracks, and the solution pockets common on limestone. Many climbers carry one or two pink and red Tricams as specialised problem-solvers rather than as primary protection.
Sources
- Trad protection — American Alpine Club