Cams and nuts are the two staples of trad protection. Cams are active devices with spring-loaded lobes that grip parallel cracks and place fast; nuts are passive metal wedges that lock into constrictions — lighter, cheaper, and bombproof where a crack pinches down. A good rack carries both.
| Aspect | Cams | Nuts |
|---|---|---|
| Type | Active (moving lobes) | Passive (wedge) |
| Works in | Parallel & flaring cracks | Constrictions / tapering cracks |
| Speed to place | Fast | Slower (find the slot) |
| Weight | Heavier | Light |
| Cost | Expensive | Cheap |
| Reliability | Can 'walk' out of position | Bombproof in a good slot |
Choose Cams if…
- The crack is parallel-sided
- You need to place fast on pumpy ground
- You want versatile, quick protection
Choose Nuts if…
- The crack tapers or constricts
- You're saving money or weight
- You want set-and-forget anchor pieces
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
Are cams or nuts better for beginners?
Nuts are a great first purchase: cheap, light, durable, and they teach you to read constrictions in the rock. Cams are more expensive and easier to place quickly, so many beginners add a set of cams once they have nuts and basic skills.
Which is stronger, a cam or a nut?
A well-placed nut in a good constriction is extremely strong — often as strong as a cam. Strength depends far more on the quality of the placement and the rock than on the gear type itself.
Do you need cams to trad climb?
Not always — some crack types take nuts beautifully and many classic routes can be protected with passive gear. But cams protect parallel cracks where nuts won't hold, so a versatile rack includes both.
Related: Cams · Nuts · Passive protection · Active protection · Hex