Crimp vs Sloper

Crimps and slopers are opposite kinds of hold. A crimp is a small edge gripped with bent fingertips, demanding finger strength; a sloper is a rounded hold with no edge, held by friction, body position, and an open hand. Crimps reward power; slopers reward technique and tension.

Aspect Crimp Sloper
Shape Small edge Rounded, no edge
Grip Bent fingertips Open hand, full palm
Demands Finger strength Friction, body position
Injury risk High (finger pulleys) Lower
Conditions Less sensitive Better when cold & dry

You'll use a crimp grip when…

  • The hold is a small, positive edge
  • You're on thin face climbing
  • You have strong fingers

You'll use a sloper grip when…

  • The hold is rounded with no edge
  • You're on volumes or rounded boulders
  • Conditions are cold and dry for friction

Verdict

These aren't a choice but the two ends of the grip spectrum — strong climbers train both, since most routes mix them. Crimping builds finger strength; sloper climbing builds tension and footwork.

Frequently asked questions

Are crimps or slopers harder?

It depends on your strengths: crimps test raw finger strength, while slopers test body tension, position, and friction. Many strong climbers find slopers humbling because power alone doesn't help — and vice versa for technical climbers on crimps.

How do you train slopers?

Climb on rounded holds and volumes, focusing on keeping your weight below the hold, maximising skin contact, and engaging your core. Cold, dry conditions and chalk help. Body position matters far more than grip strength.

Why do slopers feel impossible sometimes?

Because they rely entirely on friction and position — if your hips are too high, you pull outward, or your skin is warm and sweaty, the grip simply fails. Small changes in body position and conditions make a huge difference.

Related: Crimp · Sloper · Pinch · Climbing holds · Hangboard