A dyno and a deadpoint are both dynamic moves, differing in how much you commit. In a deadpoint you stay in contact with the wall and catch a hold at the weightless top of a controlled surge; in a dyno your whole body launches off the wall to reach a far hold. A deadpoint is the smaller, more controlled cousin.
| Aspect | Dyno | Deadpoint |
|---|---|---|
| Body contact | Fully leaves the wall | Stays on the wall |
| Distance gained | Large | Short to moderate |
| Control | Lower (committing) | High |
| Risk | Higher (can miss & drop) | Lower |
| Use when | Hold is far beyond reach | Hold is just out of static reach |
Dyno when…
- The next hold is too far for any static or deadpoint move
- You're on a boulder over pads
- You can commit fully
Deadpoint when…
- The hold is just beyond a static reach
- You can keep your feet on the wall
- You want a controlled, precise move
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between a dyno and a deadpoint?
In a deadpoint you keep a hand and your feet on the wall and catch the hold at the weightless apex of a controlled move. In a dyno your whole body leaves the wall to reach a hold that's too far for any static or semi-static move.
Is a deadpoint easier than a dyno?
Generally yes — a deadpoint is more controlled and less committing because you stay in contact with the wall. Dynos require precise timing and full commitment, and a miss means an uncontrolled fall.
How do you learn to dyno?
Practise over crash pads with a spotter: sink to load your legs, drive explosively upward with legs and arms, and aim to latch the hold at the highest, weightless point of the jump. Commit fully — hesitating mid-move is what causes failure.
Related: Dyno · Deadpoint · Lock-off · Bouldering · Crash pad