| Type | Controlled dynamic move |
| Catch at | The weightless apex |
| Keeps | A hand and feet on the wall |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
A deadpoint is a controlled dynamic move where you reach a far hold at the brief, weightless apex of an upward motion — the point where you are momentarily neither rising nor falling. Unlike a full dyno, you keep at least one hand and your feet on the wall, making it a precise, efficient way to gain distance.
How it works
Sink, drive up smoothly, and latch the hold exactly at the top of the motion, when the grip is momentarily weightless.
Deadpoint vs dyno
A dyno launches the whole body; a deadpoint stays on the wall. See dyno vs deadpoint.
Good to know
It pairs with the lock-off as a way to reach distant holds efficiently.
Frequently asked questions
What is a deadpoint?
A deadpoint is a small, controlled dynamic move where you time your reach to catch a hold at the highest, weightless point of the motion. Because you grab the hold exactly when your body stops rising, the grip feels momentarily weightless and easier to latch.
What's the difference between a deadpoint and a dyno?
In a deadpoint you stay in contact with the wall — keeping a hand and your feet on — and move only as far as the apex of a controlled surge. In a dyno your whole body leaves the wall. A deadpoint is the smaller, more precise, more controlled cousin of the dyno.
How do you deadpoint?
Sink slightly, then drive smoothly upward with legs and core and release for the hold at the top of the motion, catching it just as you become weightless. Timing the catch to that apex — not before or after — is the whole skill.
Sources
- Climbing movement — American Alpine Club