| Definition | No moving parts; wedges in rock |
| Examples | Nuts, hexes, offset nuts |
| Best in | Tapering constrictions |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
Passive protection is trad climbing gear with no moving parts that holds by wedging into a constriction in the rock — chiefly nuts and hexes. It is light, cheap, and durable, and works best where a crack pinches down. It contrasts with active protection like cams.
How it works
You slot the piece above a narrowing in the crack so a downward pull wedges it tighter — the principle behind the nut and hex.
Passive vs active
Active protection (cams) grips parallel cracks with springs; passive gear needs a constriction. See passive vs active.
Good to know
Light, durable, and reliable, passive gear is the historic foundation of the trad rack.
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between passive and active protection?
Passive protection has no moving parts and holds only by wedging where a crack narrows — nuts and hexes. Active protection has a spring mechanism (cams) that grips parallel and flaring cracks. Passive gear is lighter, cheaper, and more durable; active gear is more versatile.
What are examples of passive protection?
Nuts (also called stoppers or chocks), hexes, and offset nuts are the main passive pieces. Tricams can act passively too. They all rely on slotting into a constriction so a downward pull wedges them tighter.
Is passive protection safe?
Yes — a well-placed nut in good rock is extremely strong and reliable, and passive gear is the historic foundation of trad climbing. Safety comes from finding good constrictions and seating the piece well, not from the gear type itself.
Sources
- Passive rock climbing protection — American Alpine Club