Key takeaways
- An edge is a hold with a flat, distinct ledge or lip — gripped by the fingertips or stood on with the shoe edge.
- Edges range from large positive ledges to tiny micro-edges.
- Hands grip edges with a crimp or open-hand; feet use them by edging.
- Edges are one of the most common hold types; using them well is core technique.
What an edge is
An edge is a climbing hold with a flat, distinct ledge or lip that climbers grip with their fingertips (as a handhold) or stand on with the edge of the shoe (as a foothold). Edges range from large, positive ledges to tiny micro-edges, and they’re one of the most common hold types on featured rock and gym walls.
How to use one
- Hands: grip with a crimp (fingers bent over the edge) or open-hand, depending on size.
- Feet: use it by edging — placing the edge of your shoe (usually the inside edge) precisely on it and weighting it.
On a vertical face, a climber crimps a small edge with their fingertips while precisely edging the inside of their shoe onto a tiny ledge for their foot — trusting both small edges and standing up to the next hold.
Edge vs crimp
The terms overlap: an edge describes the hold (a flat ledge), while a crimp usually means both a small edge and the bent-finger grip used on it. A large edge can be held open-handed and isn’t really a crimp; a small one is gripped by crimping. Edges (used with the feet via edging) are the counterpart to friction holds like slopers and footwork like smearing.
The bottom line
An edge is a climbing hold with a flat ledge or lip — gripped by the fingertips with the hands (crimped or open-handed) and stood on with the shoe edge by the feet (edging). Edges span large positive ledges to tiny micro-edges and are among the most common holds. Using them well — precise placement, the right grip — is core climbing technique, the counterpart to friction holds and smears.
Frequently asked questions
What is an edge in climbing?
An edge is a climbing hold with a flat, distinct ledge or lip. As a handhold, you grip it with your fingertips; as a foothold, you stand on it with the edge of your shoe. Edges range from large, comfortable ledges to tiny micro-edges that barely fit your fingertips or shoe rubber, and they're one of the most common hold types.
How do you use an edge?
With your hands, you grip an edge using a crimp (fingers bent over the edge) or an open-hand grip, depending on its size and your strength. With your feet, you use an edge by edging — placing the edge of your shoe (usually the inside edge by the big toe) precisely on it and weighting it. Precise placement and trusting the hold are key, especially on small edges.
What's the difference between an edge and a crimp?
They overlap: an 'edge' describes the hold (a flat ledge or lip), while a 'crimp' usually refers both to a small edge and to the bent-finger grip used on it. A large edge can be gripped open-handed and isn't really a crimp; a small edge is gripped by crimping. So crimping is one way to grip a (small) edge.
Sources
- Holds & technique — American Alpine Club
- Climbing fundamentals — UIAA