An edge and a crimp are points on the same spectrum. An edge is any flat-lipped hold; a crimp is specifically a small edge gripped with bent fingertips. Every crimp is a small edge, but not every edge is small enough to crimp — larger edges let you get more finger pads on.
| Aspect | Edge | Crimp |
|---|---|---|
| Definition | Any flat-lipped hold | A small edge gripped bent |
| Size | Small to generous | Small only |
| Grip | Open hand or half crimp | Bent fingertips (half/full crimp) |
| Relationship | The broad category | The small extreme |
| Footwork | You also stand on edges | Too small to stand on |
It's an edge when…
- The hold has a flat lip of any size
- You can get finger pads on it
- You're standing on it with your shoe
It's a crimp when…
- The edge is small enough to need bent fingertips
- Only your fingertips fit
- You grip it in a half or full crimp
Verdict
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between an edge and a crimp?
An edge is any hold with a flat lip, large or small; a crimp specifically means a small edge gripped with bent fingertips. Every crimp is a small edge, but a generous edge you can get several pads on isn't called a crimp.
When does an edge become a crimp?
When it gets small enough that you must bend your fingers at the knuckles to hold it — roughly fingertip-width. Larger edges are held with more open, relaxed fingers and aren't crimps.
How do you grip an edge?
On bigger edges, use an open hand or half-crimp with several finger pads; on tiny edges, a half or full crimp. With your feet, you stand on edges by edging — placing the shoe's rim precisely on the lip.